Bitter grapefruit, fresh lemons and aldehydes open the fresh Eau d’Hadrien. The aldehydes add that usual sparkling quality – throwing the citrus off the skin in a bucket of freshness. Not too green, but full of rich citric juices, Eau d’Hadrien’s bitter edge and the sourness of the lemons are classically presented in a tradition eau de cologne style – only it packs a little more punch.
The fragrance is relatively linear, with a lovely cypress – ever so slightly medicinal, green and “sappy”. It pulls the astringent quality of the fleeting grapefruit into the heart so that the lemon doesn’t sit on its own.
A little soapy – a little bit like bathroom cleaner (due to obvious associations), but charming and simplistic none the less.
Some patchouli joins in during the late drydown – not so rich and earthy as I’d hoped but instead clean and scrubbed, paired with the citrus notes it reminds me of the patchouli used in CB’s Patchouli Empire – I didn’t like that…
Within half an hour all the citrus has vanished, what is left is an ever-so-slightly musky, soapy patchouli, with a delicate metallic edge. It’s a skin scent, and a slight off one at that.
What more is there to say – it’s a nice-ish example of a cologne.
A cool, herbal breeze wafts up from Eau Du Sud. The subtly camphorous vapour of fresh-cut mint leaves, gives way to a beautiful note of basil and citrus. Sour lemon rind, with hints of green, paired with the menthol and basil gives of a wonderfully traditional vibe and the green herbals add an edge that’s a little more interesting than Eau d’Hadrien.
All harsh edges smooth out very quickly, and Eau Du Sud becomes a little more “standard”. Still, even though the mint burns off relatively quickly, it’s cool effect is left on the skin – bringing to mind salty sea air.
The citrus also tames quickly as, what I think is, a smidge of oakmoss comes forward. The herbals also retreat relatively quickly – but thankfully pull the opening away from cleaning product territory and therefore it stays that way.
The drydown as with Eau d’Hadrien comes around quickly, with the citrus gradually vanishing along with the fresh herbal notes. A very quiet, sherbert-y floral becomes present, I mistook it for violet at first but it turns out jasmine is listed? I don’t quite get that but hey. I know this is not what you’re supposed to do, but on my second wearing of this, I rubbed the fragrance between my wrists hard about 20 minutes into the fragrance, and this sherberty-floral is far more present, it evaporates instantly but is the quick glimpse is the most interest part of Eau Du Sud – it’s a shame they didn’t amplify this hidden sour/fizzy/floral quality.
This EDT doesn’t last too long, but it is nice enough whilst it lasts – the most interesting of the two fragrances :)
Eau D’Hadrien 100ml EDT Annick Goutal – £72 House Of Fraser
Eau Du Sud 100ml EDT Annick Goutal – £72 House Of Fraser