Tubereuse 3 Animale opens super sweet and hugely floral, it brings to mind the dated, cheapie classics like Lou Lou by Cacharel, with its intense, high-pitched powder. It takes a good minute or so before it manages to rearrange itself, where a sugar-coated cinnamon spice and a big juicy tuberose come together.
At this point up top, the tuberose is clearly the lead, slightly lactonic, just hinting at towards its tropical side, fleshy and mouth-watering. The cinnamon spice begins to transform into a syrupy immortelle, far more on the maple syrup side of the scale than the curry. Dripped over the tuberose, it makes the big white floral smell honey drenched – indolic as ever and now with a whole new texture.
Tubereuse 3 Animale may sound like it’s all sugar and flowers, the great thing about it is what’s underneath – a big waft of pipe tobacco. It’s got that fruity, wine like aroma, with a dry hit of smoke. It adds to that honeyed texture of the immortelle and smells as though it would be sticky – mmm!
Drying it out a little bit is that subtle waft of hay (similar to Chergui) that I guess comes from a huge blob of musky coumarin. When this starts to come in, the tuberose settles in intensity and brings in a jasmine (I think), it kind of acts like a support – the tuberose has obviously been handled with a light hand so as not to drown out the quieter hay and tobacco, the jasmine keeps the juicy white floral accord glowing. The jasmine has been tamed into a bubblegum sweetness, similar to it’s use in Heeley’s Bubblegum Chic. But, where BC’s accord is paired with an overload of white musk to make something cheaply playful, Tubereuse 3 Animale has a solid, slightly dirty edge – tobacco, spicy immortelle, and rich red fruits, allowing the fragrance to be taken a lot more serious.
The drydown brings on a resinous amber, still smoked by the honeyed tobacco. The immortelle’s spice that disappeared at the start, seems to come back just a little bit as its rich syrup dries out. The tuberose/jasmine just about hangs around until the end, and the fragrance from start to finish feels like something classical and classy. Whilst completely different in smell, the first fragrance Tubereuse 3 Animale brought to mind was Parfumerie Generale’s beautiful Intrigant Patchouli – they both have that “this smells like a classic” feel (relating to the big powerhouses of the yesteryears).
The composition is tight, well thought out, and very wearable! For a fragrance containing immortelle, tuberose and bubblegum jasmine – I wouldn’t be surprised if the words alone sent some people running. It is not as loud as it sounds, and each note is tamed so that all ugliness (which some of us love) has been cut out – leaving all the juicy goodness inside this golden syrup :) A brilliant tuberose, easily unisex, and maybe even a perfect introduction to the big white flower… Thomas I hope you’ve smelt this!! :D
Tubereuse 3 Animale 60ml EDP Histoires De Parfums – 87 Euros histoiresdeparfums.com