Voleur De Roses – L’Artisan Parfumeur


Voleur De Roses opens with a sharp hit of metallic, camphorous patchouli in the style of the recent Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille. The metallic edge takes it away from the plush, cosy quality of Lutens’ camphorous opening in Borneo, and whilst the high pitch could be considered uncomfortable, the other leading notes help to take it down a level.

The rose is fresh and wet. Paired with the patchouli the freshness is pulled from the earth, adding a slightly dirty edge, whilst the “wet” I describe – is a literal translucent veil of water. There is a fresh rainwater note, gathering in a shallow puddle above the entire composition – it is not aquatic, salty, ozonic or marine, instead it is more reminiscent of the slightly soiled water in a vase of flowers.

A dusting a bright pollen, scatters across the now quieter patchouli, whilst the metallic edge dilutes under the rainwater. At this point, both the rose and patchouli are balanced enough for a purple, fruit note of plum to come into focus. The fruit appears as a facet of the rose, and that’s what I thought it was all along, until I read that the plum note is individual. Once I read this, I now see it almost as the centre point of the heart of Voleur De Roses. I smell it as though it is wedged in between the patchouli and the rose – three standalone notes, almost gothic when combined. They are brooding and intense, with the still present metallic note acting like the chains tying them together, but with a light-handed touch reminiscent of cold incense.

It remains translucent, the initial bracing dew of the fresh-out-the-earth rose drips from the top into the heart, it almost makes my mouth water! This water and pollen nectar create the naturalistic sweetness needed to calm the down the ugly aspects of the soil-filled rose and the mineral twang of metal running through the patchouli.

The simplistic but beautifully balanced composition becomes quiet on the skin, staying close but with an almost shadowed presence – it’s dark and mysterious, but with the fresh rainfall quality keeping it on the more summery side of seasonal wear. I do see Voleur De Roses as ideal for summer – it has a damp, crispness soaking your skin from the wet rose petals, the sodden patchouli and cool metallic edge, and the juiciness of a bright plum, all atmospherically composed to feel open and ethereal. An uncomplicated but elegant fragrance.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur De Roses 100ml EDT – £78 artisanparfumeur.com

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9 thoughts on “Voleur De Roses – L’Artisan Parfumeur

  1. This must be the summer of roses. They are coming out from every corner. This sounds very interesting, but you say at the end it’s uncomplicated, but it sounds complicated with the mysterious metallic, wet patchouli rose!

    • I guess it does. Well, but uncomplicated – it is pretty much just these three standalone accords that you can smell. Rose, patchouli, red fruit. When you sniff it, it doesn’t smell particularly complex – just everything that is there works really well together – kind of like the Huitieme Art fragrances (minimal ingredients, lovely simplistic outcome). The querky angles that come from each of the notes though (metallic patchouli, wet rose) slip in so easily that it becomes familiar very quick. You should definitely snap up a bottle if you find one in a sale soon (50ml bottles of these are regularly £25 in online sales) :)

  2. laniersmith says:

    What a beautiful description. Let me say that again, WHAT a beautiful description of this perfume! You made me want to dive right into a swimming pool on the French Rivera that is filled with Voleur De Roses. A brilliant review.
    Lanier

  3. Undina says:

    Since Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille was one of a few perfumes I was looking forward to and got really disappointed by since it really didn’t work for me, the comparison to it doesn’t make Voleur De Roses sound too promissing for me but it was interesting to read your take on it.

    • MPCPC is far more intense and difficult thank VDR. VDR is like the more wearable version of a similar style of patchouli but with superior supporting notes, the Goutal is a mere comparison to the metallic notes on stuffy patchouli. Still worth a try :)

  4. Natalie says:

    Beautiful images in this review, which make me want to take another look at this. Most striking to me is the idea of plum, patchouli, and rose as a “troubled trio.” I think I like my perfumes a little troubled. :) Thanks for the gorgeous review.

    • No thank YOU for the lovely words.
      I bought this blind for my mum for Christmas knowing she loves patchouli. I was disappointed when I first sniffed it, and have never wore it on my skin up until I decided I was going to look at it again.
      I never planned to write about it, but as soon as I properly smelt it, I realised how great it is. Subtle, but great.
      And yep, the leading notes all have a dark, fascinating edge to them :D

  5. [...] OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VOLEUR DE ROSES:  smellythoughts, Perfume Shrine, [...]

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