CB I Hate Perfume – Cumming, Greenbriar 1968

Before I start – I believe my sample is of the original Cumming fragrance (which is extremely hard to find now) – Christopher Brosius has re-released this scent in his own water format and oil absolute (which apparently is absolutely no different!) called 2nd Cumming.

Cumming is surprisingly – really lovely! It opens with Brosius’ isntantly recognizable “dirt accord”, followed by – smooth leather, a rich boozy note, tobacco, rubber, a delicate smoke, all piled in at once into a gorgeous, but slightly restrained opening. It is extremely unusual (especially for a celebrity scent), but really lovely on the skin. The leather is worn and rugged, yet smoothed out into an almost suede like texture from the synthetic rubbery notes and the smooth honeyed tobacco. The smoke is literally a whisper, and the boozy notes a sweetened whisky stain rather than astringent and sharp.
The dirt (like most CB scents) retreats into the background relatively quickly, it is always an accord that starts out with pungency and then disappears, but it’s earthiness seems to round out scents and add that distinctive green edge.

Cumming becomes seamless – it is velvet soft on the skin, and a little bit quiet. Considering the huge personality of each accord that CB has used to create this, he has somehow hushed them all into something very refined and well-behaved. Whilst in all honesty I’d rather than screeching at full volume – it is has a wonderful presence, mature and formal, but with a real playful edge.

The fragrance’s life isn’t particularly long – the leather remains throughout, with a vanillic sweetness that resembles the leather treatment in the drydown of Dzing!, the dirt accord of wet soil and mushrooms hides extremely quietly at the base, whilst the sweet booziness and smoke remain harmoniously quiet but always there. I also get a powerful, dusty saffron presence from start to finish although it isn’t listed – it adds a little more stinky warmth to the fragrance.
All in all, a really great scent, it’s just a shame that after an hour, it is barely detectable.

Dirt again, crushed leaves, the dampness of cedar wood shavings, and a dirty patchouli open Greenbriar 1968. There’s the scent of cut grass in here – but more like hay – farm like almost. I also pick up a weird “breath” aroma in here too, a little bit of an “off” note that reminds me of sweat and soiled skin.

Greenbriar begins to re-arrange itself and get confortable after a couple of minutes, where similarly to Cumming, Christopher Brosius’ honeyed tobacco rises up to the top, paired with the fresh-cut hay note. A worn leather appears and the wood shavings becomes a mere whisper.

The most fascinating part of Greenbriar for me is a very light, delicate floral note that smells extremely familiar but I feel like I haven’t smelt it before. Trying to hunt this down, I came across Fragrantica where it lists “cotton flower”… the perfumer also lists on his website that Greenbriar contains the faint scent of “grease covered cotton overalls”. I actually kind of get this, and the delicate flower smells nothing like laundry, but more the slightly dusty scent of cotton. So how the hell do I know that cotton has a scent? Well, my hobby used to be designing and making clothes – and buying rolls of fabric hold this unique scent, similarly to how a library smells of books. But, the perfumer is also correct when he describes this accord as “faint” – blink and you’ll miss it, but when you catch it, it is beautifully familiar and homely.

What remains up top for the rest of the fragrance’s life is the green, snapped-twig scent, a honeyed sweetness of tobacco, all overlaid with a translucent, slightly soiled leather. Unfortunately, yet again, it is extremely light on the skin, almost undetectable after a couple of hours, with no throw of the skin.
I’ve said it over and over again – the CB I Hate Perfume line needs to be stronger, and set in alcohol… putting these creations in small dilution in water is a complete waste of this guy’s talent. I adore so much of the line, but haven’t bought one for the reason mentioned above. It’s a real shame, if he dropped his watery nonsense, my wallet would be empty :)
Both beautiful perfumes, but with a tiny life-span.

Cumming available in 100ml water/15ml absolute – $69 cbihateperfume.com
Greenbriar 1968 100ml water – $80, 15ml absolute – $95 cbihateperfume.com

About these ads
Tagged , , , , , ,

10 thoughts on “CB I Hate Perfume – Cumming, Greenbriar 1968

  1. I really hate it when fragrances don’t have a long life. Neither of these sound like they would draw me in.

    • Ah well, I love the scents, but yeh the life is just ridiculous. You can detect them on the skin after a few hours, but they are a millionth of the size they are when they go on, they just vanish. A lot CB’s a like that, and others are a little better – his absolutes are no better :(

      • Those kind of scents are good for bedtime. Just spritz a little on and it helps you drift off to sleep. But since you aren’t awake for very long, it doesn’t matter if the scent doesn’t last!

  2. Undina says:

    Since I’m in all that because I love perfume I object to the name and to the concept. Of course, the fact that none of the scents I smelled attracted me enough to try on skin, makes it even easier for me to object ;)

    • Really? I’m kinda the opposite – I loveeeee the concept, and the scents – they’re just poorly finished with their dilution (I’m guessing).
      Sure they’re not the most readily available fragrances to wear, but some of the combinations are so gloriously grotesque and somehow they work perfectly :’) (I’m thinking Summer Kitchen’s dustbin and hot vegetables)

      • Undina says:

        Nah… I want beautiful and beautifully made perfumes. There are plenty of non-perfume smells around me in the everyday life as is.

  3. MB says:

    I liked 2nd Cumming but found the same issue with it. It does feel like a complete fragrance but the base accord is simply underdosed imo. Excellent writeup my friend

    • Yep! It starts out with a load of accords that should be piercingly strong, but it somehow only gets lighter. I’ve found this with most of the CB scents though – it’s a shame :(

  4. laniersmith says:

    I was getting interested mostly in the first one until you mentioned that they are water based. No thanks. BUT the reviews were so well written and I enjoyed my time in your words.
    Lanier

    • Thank you.
      Yep well, if you can track down a vintage bottle of Cumming then bonus, but to be honest, even that is relatively short lived – the water based fragrance seems to last around about the same time (and it’s nice n cheap on the CB website considering it’s for 100ml)

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 235 other followers

%d bloggers like this: