Naiviris – Huitieme Art

African Red Iris and Zebra Wood Essence - sounds fantastic! :)

Oh yessssss! Naiviris opens with one of the best iris notes I’ve smelt. I briefly tried this on a tester strip in London and thought “nice” – but on skin, it warms up instantly and it is truly something wonderful.

The iris has this leathery warmth to it, an animalic iris if you will. I’ve just picked up on what the leathery smell is… SAFFRON. It’s gorgeous, lightly powdered and wonderfully dusty. I’ve been on the hunt for a good saffron (and iris) – so this combination is perfect.

Whether I just get used to it – or it does actually tame down, Naiviris’ gorgeous opening does become more muted and not quite as plush after ten minutes or so – but it’s still a gorgeous accord. I’m sure there isn’t but it even smells like there’s a tiny dabbing of oud in here. Naiviris smells like a much more subdued and refined Montale – quieter, with the signature saffron/oud accord running underneath a doughy iris – yes it’s as lovely as it sounds.

So I said “quieter” – like most of the Huitieme Art fragrances (minus Fareb) Naiviris is quiet, close to the skin and cleanly composed. What I mean by that is they are generally uncomplicated; but instead, crisp, clear examples of individual notes and accords that work in a perfectly balanced harmony – orchestrated so that they are pretty much instantly safe and likeable. That’s not normally my style I know, but they are great examples of this type of perfumery.

Unfortunately for me, what started with great promise dries down pretty quickly to something I don’t enjoy half as much as the beginning. The saffron notes evaporate and the iris goes from rooty and vegetal to lightly floral. The zebrawood (I have no clue what this is supposed to smell like but I know it looks pretty…) I’m assuming is the only thing providing the support – a very delicate, slightly bitter woodsy note, clean and pleasant.

I do wish the volume of this were amped up and it lasted a good while (with a more complex drydown), it would probably be one of my favourite iris scents. Pierre Guillaume’s main line Parfumerie Generale still has some wonderful iris fragrances so I may have to head back over there for my fulfillment.

All in all, a lovely, delicate (and a little too quiet) scent, unusual at first with a generic floral drydown - short-lived but pretty while it lasts. Manguier Metisse whilst not the most original fragrance – still appears to be my favourite of the line.

Huitieme Art Naiviris 50ml - £88 Les Senteurs

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12 thoughts on “Naiviris – Huitieme Art

  1. You are an iris lover aren’t you. Me, not so much. Sorry this one didn’t work out for you. And I don’t know what it is about the Huitieme bottles that leave me cold and make me not want to test their fragrances??! Craziness, but I look at them and go…pass.

    • Really? I love the bottles :)
      Yes I love iris – not enough to own one yet though which is wierd…
      Have you sampled much over-the-top iris yet?
      And to be honest, you don’t really need to sample them – they are very simplistic – clean and dare I say it – predictable… minus Fareb which smells like stinky curry skin :(

      • No. I can’t say that I have ever experienced an over the top iris and maybe one day I’ll look for an iris scent, but doubtful. If I want a curry scent, I’ll stick with Pd’E
        Fougere Bengale.

      • Fougere Bengale is a fantastic fragrance :D
        Well, you must get a sample of Iris Silver Mist – as cliche as that sounds, if I had a bottle I’d sort you some out! :( But alas… maybe one day.
        I’ll include a sample of Chypre Rouge in my next shipping to you – if you can get used to the berry sweetness in it, I think you’ll really enjoy it (that has a slight immortelle curry kick but lots of raspberry jelly and moss) :)

      • That sounds lovely. I love chypres and for some reason, you put the word “rouge” on anything and I’m there. I have no idea why I have these strange quirks!

      • The deep red liquid helps too – I love the scent :D

  2. Undina says:

    You have such a lovely conversation going on here, I’m not even sure if I should be interfering :)

    I’m with Freddie on liking iris and with Steve on not liking those bottles (though I haven’t seen them in RL). I will test this line eventually, but, in general, I’m not buying quiet perfumes any longer: I’d rather control the projection by the amount I apply.

    • Ahh they are much better in real life – a lovely matte material, like a little piece of art I love em.
      And that’s very true – I find I don’t find enough times I want to wear the quiet fragrances in my collection. I hate having to reapply too haha, because I always want to put something else on in the evening.
      It has a lovely lovely opening though :) worth a try.

  3. laniersmith says:

    Great review! I really enjoy your style. Isn’t it funny how some perfumes open so lush and then peter out somewhere along the ride to the dry down. But still I find if I love a scent enough… then I go with it again and again throughout the day.
    Ciao!

    • That’s real nice thanks mate :)
      Yeh, to be honest – not until recently did I really find something where I didn’t enjoy the drydown as much as the opening – I’ve came across loads recently so finally get it.
      I’m all up for good progression and changes, when it doesn’t go downhill of course…
      I’ll keep trying this, it’s not that the drydown is bad, it’s just a let down from the start. I found the same with Manguier Metisse only it’s still wonderful throughout it’s life.
      Anyway :) Cheers for stopping by duuude.

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