The final Vero fragrance reviews here. I have lived with them a little longer than those in my previous reviews, but still feel incomplete in my thorough understanding of them. So as always, here’s where I learn everything else…
Rubj EDP opens with a beautiful citrus with Vero’s creamy, passion fruit note instantly recognizable.
This quickly tumbles into an intense orange blossom aroma, with a bizarre anise providing a 10 second flicker. The openings to the Vero Profumo Eau De Parfum’s are so much to take in at once that my fingers can’t keep up with my writing.
So back to the opening whilst I remember… The citrus burst is both floral, and acidic. The creamy passion fruit signature (that has a urinal resemblance as mentioned in my other Vero reviews) ties Rubj together with both Onda and Kiki. The orange blossom merges with a full, voluptuous tuberose - rubbery and thoroughly narcotic. The florals are in balance with neither dominating, but both thrown out in full force. Bizarrely, the narcotic qualities of these florals paired with whatever else is going on in the base, give off an almost fruity-berry like aroma. This de-sweetened acidic fruit note ties Rubj to its name with a scarlet colour. The subtle yet unusual transformation reminds me of how the orange blossom in Parfumerie Generale’s Cuir Venenum turns into grape soda (only in a much more obvious manner).
Cutting under the white floral bouquet is a deep green oakmoss and a sharp wood (cedar I assume), that is almost as potent as the florals, making this an instantly recognizable chypre (something that I normally struggle detecting). The bitter greenery underneath is something that I’m not all that used to and am never sure whether I thoroughly enjoy it or not. Having said that, it is a wonderful change to my usual familiarity with tuberose in which it is always layered over something enhancing it’s thick, creaminess - coconut, musk, benzoin, sandalwood etc. Here the green chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss really balance out the sweetness and add an almost astringent quality to Rubj.
The passion fruit signature remains ever-present for a long time, imparting its familiar almost industrial aroma which seemed exaggerated in Onda. However, here, paired with the narcotic florals and bitter oakmoss greenery, everything seems to fall into a perfect harmony that feels both desperately modern, and so classical it becomes familiar. As a chypre, the base never fully tumbles into the depths of the greenery thanks to this neoteric passion fruit, verging on an almost overtly synthetic feel that keeps Rubj bright and electric – I have learnt to love this sharp and daring signature.
Rubj is clear and collected, defying expectations of accords and fragrant families with perfect execution.
Rubj Parfum (extrait) pushes forward with the narcotics even further with an immediate opening of hugely indolic jasmine. The magic mystery ingredient yet again produces a subtle berry aroma, and a tuberose I’m sure hides in the heart only much more restrained.
Here in the heart, the jasmine settles down and the orange blossom pushes forward until yet again, they are on par. Neither the jasmine or the rich orange blossom take the lead, but instead they become slightly sweeter than the EDP, yet more restrained without the uplift of the passion fruit (even though I still somehow get the feel of it).
A musk joins the rich florals and seems to provide this decadent, dirty and dusty angle. However, the scrubbed up florals and the signature Vero astringency, balance everything out into a composition that sways in and out of indolic, animalic excessiveness, and soapy, clean clarity. The result is something that becomes, thankfully, restrained and comfortable - more apparently as the heart fades into the drydown. A now streamlined fragrance settles - a green edge similar to that in the EDP is present here, along with the almost medicated berry accord still tying together the top notes with the base.
The jasmine and orange blossom tame greatly and the fragrance never falls to the darkness of say, the Onda extrait, but similarly has the greater depth and warmth. Whilst the Rubj Parfum isn’t my favourite of the trio, it is something that I feel is completely new to me, and thoroughly enjoyable for that. As with the other Vero extraits, this feels considerably more simplified than the EDP, but somehow so perfectly harmonized that it becomes just as complex. The notes work so well on their own in these extraits - allowing every aspect of them to shine and be enhanced by each other, that the complexity is something that comes only from smelling, and understanding them.
I have thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Vero Profumo fragrances and can’t wait to get my nose into the new release
Rubj Parfum Extrait 7.5ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com
Rubj EDP 50ml Vero Profumo – $195 luckyscent.com