Vero Profumo – Rubj EDP, Rubj Parfum

The final Vero fragrance reviews here. I have lived with them a little longer than those in my previous reviews, but still feel incomplete in my thorough understanding of them. So as always, here’s where I learn everything else…

Rubj EDP opens with a beautiful citrus with Vero’s creamy, passion fruit note instantly recognizable.
This quickly tumbles into an intense orange blossom aroma, with a bizarre anise providing a 10 second flicker. The openings to the Vero Profumo Eau De Parfum’s are so much to take in at once that my fingers can’t keep up with my writing.

So back to the opening whilst I remember… The citrus burst is both floral, and acidic. The creamy passion fruit signature (that has a urinal resemblance as mentioned in my other Vero reviews) ties Rubj together with both Onda and Kiki. The orange blossom merges with a full, voluptuous tuberose - rubbery and thoroughly narcotic. The florals are in balance with neither dominating, but both thrown out in full force. Bizarrely, the narcotic qualities of these florals paired with whatever else is going on in the base, give off an almost fruity-berry like aroma. This de-sweetened acidic fruit note ties Rubj to its name with a scarlet colour. The subtle yet unusual transformation reminds me of how the orange blossom in Parfumerie Generale’s Cuir Venenum turns into grape soda (only in a much more obvious manner).

Cutting under the white floral bouquet is a deep green oakmoss and a sharp wood (cedar I assume), that is almost as potent as the florals, making this an instantly recognizable chypre (something that I normally struggle detecting). The bitter greenery underneath is something that I’m not all that used to and am never sure whether I thoroughly enjoy it or not. Having said that, it is a wonderful change to my usual familiarity with tuberose in which it is always layered over something enhancing it’s thick, creaminess - coconut, musk, benzoin, sandalwood etc. Here the green chypre base of patchouli and oakmoss really balance out the sweetness and add an almost astringent quality to Rubj.

The passion fruit signature remains ever-present for a long time, imparting its familiar almost industrial aroma which seemed exaggerated in Onda. However, here, paired with the narcotic florals and bitter oakmoss greenery, everything seems to fall into a perfect harmony that feels both desperately modern, and so classical it becomes familiar. As a chypre, the base never fully tumbles into the depths of the greenery thanks to this neoteric passion fruit, verging on an almost overtly synthetic feel that keeps Rubj bright and electric – I have learnt to love this sharp and daring signature.

Rubj is clear and collected, defying expectations of accords and fragrant families with perfect execution.

Rubj Parfum (extrait) pushes forward with the narcotics even further with an immediate opening of hugely indolic jasmine. The magic mystery ingredient yet again produces a subtle berry aroma, and a tuberose I’m sure hides in the heart only much more restrained.

Here in the heart, the jasmine settles down and the orange blossom pushes forward until yet again, they are on par. Neither the jasmine or the rich orange blossom take the lead, but instead they become slightly sweeter than the EDP, yet more restrained without the uplift of the passion fruit (even though I still somehow get the feel of it).

A musk joins the rich florals and seems to provide this decadent, dirty and dusty angle. However, the scrubbed up florals and the signature Vero astringency, balance everything out into a composition that sways in and out of indolic, animalic excessiveness, and soapy, clean clarity. The result is something that becomes, thankfully, restrained and comfortable - more apparently as the heart fades into the drydown. A now streamlined fragrance settles - a green edge similar to that in the EDP is present here, along with the almost medicated berry accord still tying together the top notes with the base.

The jasmine and orange blossom tame greatly and the fragrance never falls to the darkness of say, the Onda extrait, but similarly has the greater depth and warmth. Whilst the Rubj Parfum isn’t my favourite of the trio, it is something that I feel is completely new to me, and thoroughly enjoyable for that. As with the other Vero extraits, this feels considerably more simplified than the EDP, but somehow so perfectly harmonized that it becomes just as complex. The notes work so well on their own in these extraits - allowing every aspect of them to shine and be enhanced by each other, that the complexity is something that comes only from smelling, and understanding them.

I have thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Vero Profumo fragrances and can’t wait to get my nose into the new release :D

Rubj Parfum Extrait 7.5ml Vero Profumo – $195
Rubj EDP 50ml Vero Profumo – $195

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10 thoughts on “Vero Profumo – Rubj EDP, Rubj Parfum

  1. chris says:

    Great review Freddie.
    Out of the Rubj Extrait and EDP, which one would you prefer to own ?.

  2. Oooh. To be honest, although I love the extraits, I love the sheer bluntness of the passion fruit and the almost futuristic sheen it spreads over the fragrances’ identity in the EDP. So I’d go for the EDP :)
    I’m not that used to wearing extraits either, and I’d find it almost intimidating to own. The Eau De Parfum for me is more accessible, and yet just as complicated. In the instance of Rubj, I don’t find the feel of the EDP compared with the extrait too dissimilar, unlike Onda for example where the EDP ends bright and industrial and the extrait extremely dark and rugged.

  3. chris says:

    Freddie, something well worth trying is an Amouage attar called Oudh Al Khaloud. It’s a wild, animalic attar that retails at £610 for 12ml. You can find this at the Amouage shop at Lowndes street, near Harrods.The staff are very, very friendly there and will let you try anything.

    • Chris that sounds wonderful. I haven’t visited to Amouage shop – or explored ANY of the Amouage fragrances in depth.
      I hate trying things I have no chance of affording – but oud attar’s aren’t my thing so I’m sure I’ll be able to try this without desperately worrying of needing a bottle.
      I’ll be sure to check it out – I’m sure a sample from them will be off limits! :’)

  4. Undina says:

    On my skin Rubj EdP and extrait are two completely different perfumes. EdP smelled just awful! That doesn’t happen to me too often: I might don’t care much for a perfume but I rarely really dislike it. Rubj EdP on me is one of those rare cases. Extrait is a different story: it develops beautifully on my skin and I’m still considering a bottle purchase. I’d have preferred it to be the other way around (even though the price is the same): I like my perfumes sprayed.

    • They behave very differently yes, bu compared to say – the Onda EDP and Extrait, the Rubj’s are much more similar to each other.

      Have you tried the other Vero EDP’s? They are all very much in the same vein with the bright passion fruit note creating this hugely modern signature over all the compositions. I can thoroughly understand how people can prefer the extraits and like none of the EDPs.

      I love them both!

      • Undina says:

        I can’t agree or argue about Onda: I was much more consistent with my reaction to both of the concentrations – I really disliked their development on my skin (or for my nose – I don’t know) but it was so unpleasant that I didn’t test them in parallel. So I do not know if they were similarly unpleasant or if each one had its own problems with my perception. I didn’t have a chance to try Kiki yet but after less than favorite ratio of like/hate with four samples I tried you can see how I might feel reluctant to pay for these two samples now. But eventually I”ll try them. And, of course, I’m curious now about the next perfume that will be released in September.

      • I’m curious about the new one too!
        And Kiki is probably the safest of the trio. The way Vero treats lavender in this reminds me of the way Lutens’ does in Gris Clair – it’s slightly warmer and flattering.
        I hope you get to try them soon :)

  5. Pojkfroken says:

    Rubj is the most glorious fragrance I know! Or fragranceS, they are IMO so different from each other that they aren’t the same scent at all. I love them both. And Vero Kern is about the most remarkable perfumer ever.

    Btw, 2nd the comment on the Amouage attar Oudh al Khaloudh! I stumbled upon it in Rome this winter and just HAD TO buy it right away, although the price was so ridiculously high. But oh the smell of it, and the different phases of the fragrance – pure heaven.

    • I’m assuming you’ve tried the rest of the Vero line? You see, to me the Onda EDP compared to the Extrait had the most difference, they were completely different only to be joined by a few delicate threads.
      Rubj however had one of the most accurate Extrait to EDP transformations that yes were both different, but work together in perfect harmony – I didn’t find them COMPLETELY different, I found them very much in the same vein, and I loved the duo for that.
      Yes Vero Kern is quite something – and I was thrilled to see the video online recently of both her and Andy Tauer together. Andy Tauer to me is an absolute genius and to know they know each other well is like a little fragrant fairy tale to me :’)

      I will have to hunt out this Amouage attar then! Thanks very much for the recommendation :D

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