I have grown extremely fond of the Parfumerie Generale line. They constantly impressive me, and the openings are always something truly captivating and exciting.
I only own one, but have samples of many, and am torn between what to go for next. To be honest, I have been paying more attention recently to the Huitieme Art line, but after a tad of disappointment, I have crept my way back over to these originals.
Green fragrances are something that I don’t go for due to cravings or excitement like I do with leathers, avant-garde fragrances or controversial scents. No, instead, green fragrances are something I am forcing myself to enjoy, and thankfully I feel I have got to a point where I can now appreciate a “good one”, even if it is not really to my taste. However the aim of my green exploration is to find one that IS to my taste but I’m still not sure what I’m looking for… So this one was a good start :)
Papyrus De Ciane to me is a bit of a stinker to begin with! It is the most bitter green that reminds me of old 80’s powerhouse fragrances, true macho masculines. Now, I’m crap with naming greenery, but if I’d have to take a shot… actually you know what, I’m not going to guess here: Galbanum, neroli, mugwort are just some of the notes listed in the top. So if that helps you, then so be it :) To me, it is almost a typically bitter green masculine that I would imagine sniffing in a Polo or Aramis fragrance, not that I’m familiar with either of them!
Unusually, there is something underneath this greenery, and it slowly begins to take a turn towards the sweet and powdery. It’s completely different to what I expected (a further tumble into vetiver and dry woods), instead it becomes soapy, delicately floral with the green notes more transparent but still adding that bitter edge, and a wonderful smoke of incense.
So it sounds complicated: Basically after a bitter green opening, the almost dirty dank scent of grass, reeds, leaves and herbs, thoroughly mellows into a soapy greenery, a very faint incense and a surprisingly pleasant vetiver. It’s clean, smooth, has a gentle muskiness to it adding a touch of delicate sweetness and a little bit of powder.
Apparently there’s a famous base in this called “Mousse de Saxe”, I’m not familiar with it, but if it’s there, it smells good :)
I actually wasn’t planning on giving this such a positive review – initially I felt it had a great (not to my personal taste) opening, followed by a disappointing, mellow drydown, but instead I’ve began to realise the drydown is my favourite part. Wearing it on my skin whilst reviewing this I’m starting to think “Yehhh…. I could happily wear this in the summer :)”
It starts aggressively masculine and turns thoroughly unisex – with a little bit of green leather (Isobutyl Quinolin, which I really enjoy) providing a dose of grassy, slightly animalic support on a soapy, floral heart. Unusual, and maybe even a future purchase! Recommended.
Papyrus De Ciane Parfumerie Generale 50ml EDP – $95 Luckyscent