I kept getting drawn to Rahat Loukhoum, not even really because of the notes list, I was just drawn to it. I actually got this sample for my partner but couldn’t resist a quick sniff to jot down my reviews, especially as I’m trying to explore more of the Lutens’ exclusives.
All I knew about Rahat Loukhoum was that going against the name, this doesn’t smell anything like turkish delight. I also knew that it was often compared to Louve, and I absolutely adore the opening of Louve but it all tumbles into musk too quick.
So, here’s my take on it…
Rahat Loukhoum is absolutely delicious. It is THE definition of a gourmand fragrance. Juicy cherries and almond biscotti create a marzipan covered Batternburg cake scent. It is dense yet light, lovely and sweet but not cloying at all, completely mouth-watering but mature.
The juciness does die down pretty quickly and it becomes more musky after just a couple of minutes. A lovely clean white musk, layered with the powdered almonds and cherry stains sits on the skin delicately and comfortable. There is a lot of vanilla in this also which blended with the musk creates a safe, cosy base for the cake-y-ness of the opening.
I’ve just noticed the heliotrope now, it makes the fragrance a little bit more savoury when you pick up the floral notes but it is delicate and ethereal and creates a little misty haze over the fragrance. With this list of notes, it reminds me of Smell Bent’s Dead of Winter without the anise: heliotrope, vanilla, musk but with some cherry and almonds up top. I wore Dead of Winter today which is why I’m reminded of it.
The longer it sits on my hand, the less foody it gets and it becomes pretty subtle with the cherry notes pretty much vanished now. Unfortunately, I wished the opening went on for longer as this drydown just comes on too quickly – similarly to Louve, it just seems Lutens can’t quite keep ahold of the glorious top notes of these almond fragrances. To be honest, I think I actually prefer the opening of Louve, and I almost want to own it so I can keep sniffing it over and over, but the drydown is just so disappointing in comparison, maybe I need to try it again… I’ll review it sometime soon.
Anyway back on topic:
Rahat Loukhoum is really lovely, but it is subtle, and not as sweet as I was led to believe. I’m glad I tried this, and I’m sure I’ll grow to like it more and more, but it hasn’t bowled me over as much as I’d hoped.
Rahat Loukhoum Serge Lutens 75ml belljar – 125 Euros available from sergelutens.com