Two Etat Libre D’Orange reviews here.
I love this brand, I’m desperate to own more from this brand and can’t wait to try the two new scents released this year – Bijou Romantique and Fils de Dieu (I wish for that last one they kept the original name Phillipine Houseboy – :’) genius).
Anyway, onto these ones:
Charogne or Carrion isn’t quite as horrific as the name would imply :’) It has its crude elements though…
Charogne opens with a bright bubblegum note with some hugely synthetic candied florals which decay instantly before your nose. These bitter petals are riddled with an intense indolic accord that smells slightly soiled, but not repulsive.
After a minute or two when you get your head around the decayed flowers and bubblegum, a creamy vanilla comes in to add even more sweetness to Charogne. This is quickly joined by some musk that is slightly animalic and dusty. As you can tell, there’s quite a lot going on in this, but it’s all in order and doesn’t feel messy.
The white flowers (mainly jasmine) remain indolic and decayed which you have to appreciate when wearing this because it’s the only thing de-sweetening the composition. The vanilla is lovely and cosy, as is the musk, and bizarrely the whole fragrance comes across as delicious! Not quite a corpse as the name would leave us to believe, but still not your average musky floral.
As this begins to settle down even more, I smell slight similarities to both Kenzo Amour and Hypnotic Poison, just because of the comforting vanilla/musty-ness that they both have. If you like either of those fragrances I’d definitely recommend giving this one a try!
Yet another great fragrance from Etat Libre D’Orange
Jasmin et Cigarette literally opens with a huge, tacky blast of jasmine. I love jasmine, but I prefer it gleamingly over-the-top luxurious like in Lust by Gorilla Perfumes. The little white florals in Jasmin et Cigarette remind me of the lightly fragranced petals in jasmine green tea. It’s much more green and… dull.
These flowers get a little stronger, verging on bathroom air freshener point. If you thought it couldn’t get any worse, just as you get used to the jasmine, in comes the cigarette note. It’s not beautiful rich tobacco, or even mellow cigar smoke; instead it is fag ash and breath, or at least that’s what image it puts in my mind. The cigarette note is dirty, unappealing, and makes that jasmine note that little bit tackier.
The reason I use the description “breath” is because this scent reminds me of really bad breath. Working as a body piercer and being in close proximity with people’s mouths (and other bits) on a regular basis, I get my fair share of horrendous breath. People getting their tongue pierced right after devouring their breakfast, coffee and a cigarette is a day-to-day thing, and it’s probably the worst smell in the world :’)
Jasmin et Cigarette reminds me of this. It doesn’t smell of food or whatever, it’s just unpleasant; I find it just as uncomfortable to wear as Secretions Magnifique and for me, unwearable.
The florals tone down slightly as does the dirty smokiness, what remains is a boring but ugly jasmin soliflore fragrance.
Re-reading what I have written makes it sound extremely challenging or complex, but Jasmin et Cigarette is for many, very easy to wear. The cigarette note isn’t overpowering and a lot of people don’t even detect it, but to me, the images it brings to mind are grimmer than the actual fragrance. If you’re a jasmine lover however, it’s worth a try.
Etat Libre D’Orange Charogne & Jasmin et Cigarette 50ml available from Les Senteurs – £52.50