During the time I ordered the samples of Humiecki and Graef, I also tried some major synthetics, and this was one of them.
The one useful thing that has come out of Stephen Jones is understanding aldehydes :) So that’s good. Not much else though unfortunately so here we go…
Stephen Jones opens with pure sparkling aldehydes. Now, this is pretty standalone in the opening, which is how I learnt to recognise thoroughly what an aldehyde is and how to pick it out. They are soapy/sparkling/synthetic and hyper clean, all in one bizarre chemical concoction and there is nothing else that can do what they do. Used in mass such as this, they create an otherworldly/futuristic smell.
Mixed with these aldehydes, is violet. Although, I don’t actually pick up much violet, it’s more like violet scented laundry detergent instead of either a green violet leaf or the powdery/candy like petals.
After just a couple of minutes, a strong scrubbed up clove bud squeaks in between the soapiness and the violets. I go on about cloves all the time and how much of a grimace I find them, to be honest, they’re bearable here, even though they’re strong.
To me, this is pretty much all Stephen Jones is about. It achieves what it wanted to, and it is a great modern/futuristic fragrance, with notes such as “meteorite” listed as though it’s something we will be able to relate to – I just hope that is a cheeky wink from Comme des Garcons rather than a serious artistic statement. Other notes listed are carnation (which I get just due to the peppery aspect of it), cumin, “magma” and wood etc, I think these just appear as facets of the main three things that I’ve mentioned. Maybe in the late late drydown some of these appear, I’m just not up for waiting that long.
I like Comme des Garcons, and I think this is a great collaboration, but I would never want to wear it. I will keep my sample and use it for reference, but I guess I sound old-fashioned – I like fragrances that mould with my skin and make me feel something, this doesn’t really do that. For me, Stephen Jones is a clear example of minimalistic avant-garde fragrances, to be honest, I prefer my art with a little more colour.
Update: I bought this! After wearing the remainder of my sample when the sun was out and the weather was scorching (the first few days of the upcoming summer), I fell in love with this. It works so well in the warm weather and made me feel fantastic. It was uplifting, fun, and summery in a whole new way. Whilst I will admit I don’t wear my new purchase that much, once the sun comes out again I think it will be an absolute staple. I love it :D I thought I’d keep up my previous review as I always feel it’s important to show your original views and it’s interesting to see how they change!
Comme Des Garcons – Stephen Jones EDT 55ml RRP: £75 available from shop.doverstreetmarket.com