This post could be huge if I went into detail about the crazy descriptions surrounding these fragrances released by Humiecki & Graef themselves, so I’m going to just do my bit and leave the rest to the company.
This company piqued my interest after some noses I love to listen to had mentioned great things about these guys. So, I ordered 5 samples: Skarb, Askew, Bosque, Geste and Multiple Rouge. I haven’t tried these yet, and am going to try them now, and write my initial impressions. I’ve never done this before so it’ll probably be a little shaky and maybe not make much sense but I’ll do my best!
Okay… 1st one:
Hmm, Skarb doesn’t actually open as I expected, this is the only one I read into a more than the others. Bizarrely it reminds me of watermelon, there is a sweet, watery vibe to it, and it smells like a fresh cut of watermelon, not the bubblegum kind of flavouring.
Really that’s all I can pick up at the moment, there’s an underlying sweetness to it but it’s not dominant at all.
This watermelon aromachemical explosion of calone, holds a little bit of earthiness underneath providing a tad of substance.
Something metallic is peeks through, almost in a Secretions Magnifique vibe – the fragrances aren’t similar, but they both have this sour/metallic edge although here, Skarb is droned by aquatic synthetics. The effect is clever – a watery scent that has a solid density, nothing light and aquatic here.
I’m picking up something slightly herbal now, it’s savoury, and not that strong. The watery accord is most dominating, it’s very bizarre actually and somehow compelling. It is almost the scent of drowning… If that makes any sense in an abstract/visual way…
I’m actually finding it very easy to wear, I don’t know what all the fuss is about…
Not much more to say really…
The first blast of Askew is like a quick blast of I don’t know what. I think I quickly picked up cloves, and now before I know it a tart citrus accord has came in. Instantly from tart citrus it becomes “disinfectant” citrus. It reminds me of swimming pools, not the aquatic chlorine, but the chemical disinfectant smell.
It smells a little sweaty, and now I’ve mentioned swimming pools, I can’t get this image out my head. Great… and now I can smell feet.
There’s some menthol coming in now, and some birch tar from what I can pick up.
I like this, It’s typically masculine but so overtly modernized that drones into something almost genderless.
The mental image for me is swimming pools, but like, all the good aspects of it, not the headache inducing chlorine or the water, more like everything else that’s involved in it. I know this sounds really grim, but it’s not. It’s a fascinating “environmental” fragrance in the style of many Christopher Brosius’ scents. The smell is so familiar and so literal, I feel like I am in a completely different environment.
The slight spice (cumin?) mixed with the disinfectant lemon, musk? and chemical explosion, combine to make this abstract aura of a gym changing room – fantastic!
WOW! This is fantastic! Love the opening blast of Bosque! Gosh I don’t know what this is so bare with me
Oh well, it’s some florals that I’ve never smelt before that’s for start. It’s like a natural, almost “blonde” smelling floral, neutral and kind of hay-like, with a raw meadow grass scent that is fresh, and muted. It smells bright and absolutely stunning. There’s something bizarre underneath it all that’s kind of salty or maybe milky… wait it’s turning a bit strange already.
It’s been like one minute, and I don’t mean to keep referencing it as though I’m trying to bring it up, but this really has got a Secretions Magnifique vibe coming through. I’m still really liking it, but then I don’t find SM all that bad.
Unfortunately the face dropping buzz from the beginning has kind of blended into this slightly sour milky accord. I think I can smell iris now, although it’s not listed in the notes.
Ok so this sour note is becoming more skin like, it’s quite green underneath, the meadow grass become stronger and silkier. I love the combination – a bizarre sour salted milk (sperm accord?) and the freshness of grass. It’s raw and sexual.
This is definitely my favourite so far. It turns from a blast of pure, joyful florals and sunshine into this bizarre milky skin scent. The transition is uncomfortable just for a couple of minute. But now yes, it is a refined, wearable version of Secretions Magnifique… It’s what SM should have been!! It’s natural smelling, and I’m finding it very comfortable. Thumbs up!
Ow wow, Geste now and I love the opening to this too. Kudos Humiecki & Graef! I’m very impressed!
Well, I can definitely pick up violets in this, I didn’t type quick enough to explain the initial opening. It was great, I’ll just say that
So yes, 10 seconds later there’s violet, violet on top of a beautiful, creamy musk. There’s some very pale but exquisite amber under there too, it acts like a pillow to support the violets and musk.
This is a very, very pretty scent. This is impossible not to enjoy, a beautifully put together feminine. Sorry if I’m jumping to my conclusions quickly, but I’m taking little breaks to smell this in between sentences.
Yes, delicate, elegant and fragile. I could imagine many people becoming completely attached to this fragrance as a comfort blanket. There’s a slightly “laundry” feel to it too, but it’s really clean and lovely. The delicate violets become slightly more powdery, and the musk becomes sheer, white with a laundry softness to it that is delicate on the skin and utterly comforting. Maybe not the most complex or original of the bunch, but beautiful non the less.
Multiple Rouge opens like an explosion of every fruity scented bath and body lotion in a confined area. It is extremely fruity, but not edible at all!
This gives way to an ozonic note that has surrounded all this fruit, it’s all fuzzy and metallic. Hugely synthetic and exhaustingly loud.
I’ve never smelt anything like it!
It reminds me of hairspray too, it’s almost dizzying! The two words on my mind are “robot fruit” :’)
Picking out the fruits, it’s just a huge bundle, I think I’m getting a fair bit of peach, and berries. These fruits are all leaves and stalks attached giving it a green feel. There’s a dash of immortelle providing a slighty syrupy spice to it, but the overwhelming scent is that of a robot fruit and broken stems. It’s intense, and hillarious.
This is not like any Luten’s fruit mix, it’s not stewed or candied, but neither is it fresh. (Update: I find it very similar to the opening of Byredo’s Pulp). Yep as I expected, I’m making absolutely no sense! Hopefully I’ve put this across visually enough for you to get the jist!
Ok so that’s the basics of all 5 fragrances over and done with. I have to say, I am hugely impressed with these scents so far.
I’m gonna do a quick one liner type of thing on all the fragrances again now, just as they’ve been on for a while:
Skarb - the watery accord isn’t as strong, I can still sense the watermelon notes of earlier, there’s a faint woodsy note under it all. Very pleasant and minimal. Maybe a big dose of Iso E Super in the base?
Askew - kind of reminds me now of Lush/Gorilla Perfume’s Dirty fragrance. Slightly salty/ozonic/mint, not quite as interesting anymore, but I’m sure if it was sprayed, what I loved at the start would last a lot longer. Please remember I have only used an applicator for these out my sample vials.
Bosque - still love it. It’s milky, a little salty, but with those bizarre florals now floating around on the top. Very abstract fragrance, it reminds me of sunshine… :’)
Geste - subtle, but beautiful violet. The effect of this scent almost makes me want to press my nose against my hand as though it’s a pillow. It is subtle, loveable, and comfortable.
Multiple Rouge - Unnaturally fruity, ozonic, slightly metallic, with a strange wet dog note. It’s wearable, very interesting, but I just can’t make up my mind on what I think of it!
All in all, I’m desperate now to sample the rest of the line. Very impressed, more so than I hoped. It’s great to discover something so new and unusual.
These were just part of a huge batch of samples I ordered, and I’ve pretty much been disappointed with all of them, so I’ve now got a great big grin on my face and can say that despite all the crap that Humiecki & Graef have fed us regarding these scents (the huge price being part of that crap), I think they are an exceptionally strong house and I know I’ll be investing in one of their fragrances some time soon.
I’m feeling very inspired – Wonderful stuff!
Please let me know what you think of these if anyone has gave this house a go yet