I absolutely adore both of these fragrances, and in fact, I love most of Tauer’s line (from what I’ve tried anyway). The only reason I do not own a full bottle yet is I simply can’t make up my mind as to what I want first!
I’ll start with Orange Star.
I am not into citrus fruits in fragrances, at all. I read somewhere that this was a citrus for people who don’t like citrus, and the combination between the juicy clementines and incense and amber etc. sounded fantastic.
Orange Star opens with an unbelievably juicy clementine and mandarine, but it doesn’t come across as edible at all. It’s very hard to describe. It is completely mouthwatering! It smells clean, but not “fresh” clean like most citrus scents. It is deep, almost resinous, and reminds me more of a marmalade than a fresh fruit. Although it is not listed in the notes, I am sure I can smell cardamon in there as well as some beautiful sticky vanilla bean, but the vanilla bean is minimal and exceptionally blended and gives me of a texture and sweetness rather than a vanilla extract scent.
After some minutes the patchouli starts to creep in, it is very green, and works beautifully with the tart oranges. On first application, this stage of the fragrance reminded me of Gorilla Perfumes’ Karma fragrance, only this is of absolutely exceptional quality and has far more depth.
The sweetness begins to smell quite honeyed, reminding me again of the tart marmalade in the opening. The patchouli, ambergris and rich honeyed clementines and mandarins swirl around each other in absolute perfect balance all the way through the heart. A slightly soapy note joins in, but it is not unpleasant at all, it works just to keep the incense, patchouli and amber more on the clean side.
The fragrance in the later drydown loses its tartness but stays completely rich and full of life and character.
Really, really wonderful!!
Incense Rose somehow also opens mouthwatering, despite their being nothing edible in it at all. It is tart, rich, and absolutely sparkling. A jammy rose is buried deep amongst some beautiful burning frankincense and cedar wood, and lovely and bright at top is a similar juicy bergamot and clementine. The wood is resinous and soaked in the rose and smoke. Yet again, the rose manages to remain clean amongst all the darkness – and that’s exactly what this fragrance is – dark. It opens bright and sparkling and quickly descends into a spiral of black smoke, rich spicy incense, ambergris and woods with occasional dazzling sparks of bright red bursting from the base.
Patchouli is in there too keeping the fragrance fresh, green, but slightly earthy. At the base is the “Tauerade” combination of ambergris and vanilla and anyone who has sniffed L’Air du Desert Marocain will recognise it at the base of this fragrance, and Orange Star at that. The “Tauerade” is absolutely beautiful, dry, incensey and airy. It literally floats around you like a meditative cloud.
Both Orange Star and Incense Rose have incredible longevity and sillage, I’m blown away by the quality of these and the strong effect they have on me. I would highly recommend both of them to anyone, and I think they are fantastic value for money as a bottle would last me years and years.
Well done Andy Tauer, you are my favourite perfumeur to date.
Tauer Incense Rose & Orange Star 50ml EDP – Euro 85.50 RRP
(The cheapest price I have found for these online is the official tauerperfumes.com site!)